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An Istrian still for making
rakija / trapa. Photo courtesy of
© Klaudijo
Lazarić. |
Homemade
Rakija - Trapa
trapa s.f. - grappa, prodotto della distillazione della vinaccia. Attestato anche a
Trieste, Pola, Rovigno, Grado, nel bis. e nel frl; nel ven. col senso
di «vinaccia». Dal tedesco Treber «vinacce», prob. incrociatosi con grappa.
[dal Dizionario storico del dialetto di Capodistria di Giulio
de Manzini (Trieste - Rovigno, 1995).]
Recipes
Istrian rakija / trapa is made from the husks and seeds (dropini;
must) that are left over from the wine-making process.
In the days before superhighways and modern technology, this was done
entirely by hand. Much of the ancient tradition and methodology still
exist in Istria today.
Preparing the
Must
After the wine is racked, the must (grape skins and
seeds) are put into a separate container where they are kept for about
3-4 weeks so that the remaining sugar in the must is converted
into alcohol. The must is usually preserved in big metal or
tinned container (mastel), as it is called in certain areas of Istria.
On top of the must place a wooden cover and on top of
it place a heavy weight so that during fermentation the must
does not rise. If there is insufficient weight, the must rises
and this can cause the must to dry up or even become vinegary
and become unusable for the production of rakija. It is advisable to
also include into the must the wine slurry (lees) that remains
after racking the wine (carefully decanting the wine so as not to stir
the bottom of the barrel where the lees settles).
Standard Rakija
When it comes to
making standard (non-herbal) rakija the must is not spiked with herbs
or herbal flowers during or after fermentation and before
distillation. You use only grape skins, seeds and wine lees,
if available. The distillation process for the standard and the herbal
rakija is otherwise identical.
Herbal Rakija
When it comes to making herbal rakija the important
thing is the proportion of different herbs so that all of them can be
tasted and none of them is dominant over the others. Our elders did
not have a precision scale to weigh these herbs but they knew from
experience how to mix them to perfection.
Each person places in the rakija the types of herbs
that are locally available. There are many others, but here is Klaudijo's list of
preferred herbs that he adds to the
rakija:
-
sage (kuš, salvia)
-
fennel (koromač)
-
caraway seeds (kimel)
-
peppermint (menta)
-
lemon balm (melisa)
-
basil
(bašelak)
-
marjoram (mažoran)
-
garden
thyme (timijan)
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-
wild thyme (majčina dušica)
-
rosemary (ružmarin)
-
lavender (lavanda)
-
everlasting
(smilje)
-
laurel berries or leaves
(javorove bobice)
-
juniper
berries
(smrikva krvava)
-
blue
juniper
leaves (smrikva
plava)
-
common rue
(ruda)
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All the collected herbs are finely chopped and then thoroughly mixed. It is even better
to collect the
flowers of these herbs when they are in bloom. The flowers are
prepared by
stretching them on a cardboard or wooden board and dried in the shade. When
dry, place them into a glass jar and cover it with rakija or zunta
from last year and thus preserved wait for the rakija season: late autumn.
The prepared flowers can be placed directly on top
of the must in the still just before distillation,
or it can be mixed into the must while it is still fermenting.
As in the preparation of must for ordinary
rakija, you start placing the must into the container (today these
containers are mostly made of plastic). In the case of herbal rakija,
however, you
place the must in layers. For approximately every 20
centimeters (8 inches) of must which is properly leveled and slightly
compressed to bring liquid to the surface, sprinkle in the prepared
herbs. The amount of herbs on top of each layer is difficult to judge,
because nothing is measured but sprinkled «by eye» and then the
results show who is/isn't a true rakija wizard.
After sprinkling the herbs, it is good to add in 2-3
grated apples and as many quinces. And so we keep repeating, must
and herbs with apples and quinces built up like a "torte" as long
as there is must. On top of this "torte" place a wooden cover
and on top of it a heavy weight (a couple of heavy stones). Over the
container you should place nylon or plastic to protect it from dust.
This preparation of must is then allowed to ferment for 3-4
weeks. Recently, people learned to place a heavy nylon on top of the
container, and on top of it place water as a weight, and filling it to
the top of the container. This way, the must has better
protection from the air, and the water is a better-distributed weight
over the entire surface of the must.
Distilling the Rakija
Preparing for distillation
Before you start the distillation, you
have to carefully examine the must and prepare good dried
firewood, sterilize the bottles for the rakija, and the and prepare
the still (distiller). The basic ingredients are the:
- Must - the prepared leftover
grape husks and seeds, kept in an open wooden wine barrel
- Firewood - gathered, cut and set
near the distiller
- Wine bottles - thoroughly cleaned
and ready for use
- The distiller (a.k.a. still) -
thoroughly cleaned prior to each use
The distiller (lambik, lambico,
still in English) was usually rented by the individual farmers and
it traveled from village to village. The owner of the distiller was
paid by barter: a quantity of rakija or other agricultural products in
exchange for the use of the distiller. The distiller is made of
copper and consisted of six major components:
- four-legged
fire stand,
- bottom part of the boiler,
- middle part of the boiler,
- head,
- pipes leading to the condenser, and
- condenser.
The
condenser is a standing steel barrel filled with water which had a
serpentine piping running inside of the barrel from the top to the
bottom of the barrel, and as the vapours of the rakija pass through
the serpentine pipe, the vapours condense and collect into the bottles
as liquid rakija.
The distilling process
When ready to make rakija, there are
some preliminary steps taken: the wood is prepared for the fire and the bottles and the
distiller are thoroughly cleaned.
To start, one first set up
up the wood for the
fire and then come the setting up the distiller-boiler by placing rye
straw on the bottom of the inside of the boiler. Alternately, if the
pot (lambik) has a perforated cover that separates the bottom
of the boiler and the must, do the following:
at the bottom of the lambik, place the
perforated cover and pour through a couple of bottles of old wine, zunta or the wine
lees. If you do not have any of these liquids, use
water. The important thing is that the bottom has some kind of liquid
so that the must does not bake
(rye straw
plays this role when used in a lambik that do not have a
perforated cover option).
Then you loosely place the must into
the pot up to the designated line, not to overload the still. After
that you install the hood and the rest of the still.
The boiler, the
middle part, and the head of the boiler are then clamped together with
bolt-anchors, and the pipe is connected between the boiler head and
serpentine pipe condenser.
Between the body
and the hood of the still is an edge, which you fill with water. The
water is also placed into the water reservoir where you immerse the
spiral of copper so that water will cool the alcohol vapor into liquid
as it emerges out of the tube into the bottle.
Everything is now ready to make rakija.
The still (lambik)
is ready to be lit. The flame cannot be very high; rather the must has
to be gradually warmed up with an even heat. It takes about 45 minutes
of gradual heating before rakija starts to run. Since copper is prone
to oxidation, the first ¼ liter of rakija (called ram or head) should be set
aside and only after the system is purged (cleaned) you start
collecting real rakija (the "heart"). The first liter is very strong and usually
has 80% alcohol.
We have to be careful to let the rakija run slowly down
the thread, which should not shake but allow rakija to stream evenly
into the glass. Every small change indicates changes in the still and
possibly the quality of rakija. You can recognize it by the string of pearls it forms
around the glass or bottle as it falls in. You can check the rakija by
placing a couple of drops between hands and rub and then smell.
According to the smell you can determine the quality of rakija. Some
people throw a few drops of rakija into the fire and observe the
flame. If it burns with a blue flame it means that it still has a high
alcohol content.
Rakija, in the process of distillation is filtered as it drains
through a fine strainer and through a double sterile cloth to remove
possible impurities picked up while it is cooling in the system.
Rakija must always be transparent and clear and only
towards the end of the batch does it start running cloudy. Even when
cloudy it
contains 45%-50% alcohol. At this point, however, the ethyl and methyl
alcohol start separating. This type of rakija is called zunta
(the tail), and
together with ram, it is used for massaging rheumatic bones, but if
we do not need it for such application, we put it at the bottom of the
next batch of must and repeat the process.The making of rakija normally lasts
from one day to a week or even longer, depending on the quantity of
the must. It takes forty minutes to one hour to get one liter
of good rakija.
Aging and Storing
Rakija is a potent alcoholic beverage and it should be allowed to age for
six months before being consumed. It is even better after one year, and
it should be bottled and corked in a
large glass bottles
(bocon). After
that, it should be strained one more time in a similar way as was done during
the distillation process and filled into regular bottles for storage
and gift giving. The rakija is now ready for enjoyment.
Enjoying
The standard or herbal rakija prepared can be used as the base for various
drinks such as walnut liquor, honey liquor, and also variants of these
by adding fruit to rakija - such as cherries, quince oskorusa drnjula,
grapes, and other berries of fruit that is fresh or dried. You can also add some of our favorite herbs. In Krsan we
most often use
ruta.
Sources:
- Text - Bruno Clapci, Pino Golja and Klaudijo
Lazarić
See also:
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