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Artistic Oasis in a Medieval Town The pleasant climate of this part of Istria makes it a nice place to stay in any time of the year. The soil configuration is unusually suited for the development of hunting and rural tourism, which can offer typical local cuisine, including the renowned Istrian truffles. Speleology and wine-making are already being promoted as aspects of tourism; in the latter case, there are road signs that lead visitors along the so-called wine road to the best wine cellars. The medieval town of Groznjan is located in that part of Istria where the flatlands from the Umag hinterland and the Cape of Savudrija begin to climb toward the east in a series of gentle terraced hills that are otherwise home to picturesque vineyards and olive groves. Traveling to Groznjan by road, visitors will notice that the sea, as though at an arm's length, disappears and then reappears but remains present throughout the entire journey. This is the route which was used by the unconquerable Histrians, who were only subdued by the military might of the Roman Empire. In the Middle Ages, the town was fortified with defensive walls and acquired the status of castle and Kapetanija (a medieval military district). The town also had its own charter. The town's beautiful Loggia, located next to the Main Gate, testifies to these former days of glory. Later the baroque palace of the Spinotti-Morteani family was built next to it. The city administrative building, the Corner House, the castle, the large parish church and other characteristic structures from the medieval period have maintained their original appearance to this day. The almost monolithic complex of gray, carefully sculpted stone dominates the town, from the shiny tiled alleys to the houses and arches decorated with the coats of arms and inscriptions of nobles, as well as the balconies and eaves which lure with their harmony and simplicity and hearken back to days of yore. Here, where the view extends over vast spaces, where the spirit is free to grow, where the muses have rested their gaze and smiled with favor... art is created. Actually, in 1965, a true lover of this place, sculptor Aleksander Rukavina, discovered Groznjan and promoted it as the Town of Artists and revived it. The new settlers renewed the almost ruined houses with the sensibility of those in whose veins art flows. Workshops, painter's ateliers, restoration studios, a ceramics school and numerous galleries were opened in the town, among them the distinguished Fontcicus Gallery, a focal point of exhibitions which is opened to all artistic tendencies. At the end of summer, an "impromptu" painting event is held, which is yet another opportunity to socialize and make new acquaintances. For Groznjan wants to live in an air of cosmopolitanism and in the belief that the art which restored it has the power to help in overcoming real boundaries. After the fine arts led the way, making Groznjan increasingly interesting and popular, its quiet little streets and alleys needed a new breath of life. And this is when music appeared. At first, a few timid notes were heard, but then the windows opened wide and the harmonious sounds from these narrow streets flooded the entire valley. Thanks to the Musical Youth International Music Cultural Center established here, as well as the Musical Youth of Croatia, many young people from Croatia, Europe and the world come here to learn from the best professors and instructors. Every year courses are held for individual instruments (violin, cello, viola, piano, organ and conducting), for orchestras, ballet and recitals. There are also courses for direction, video and audio recording, architectural seminars, round tables on environmental protection, and even yoga classes. Not a day goes by during the summer when there is not a concert or some other musical performance held in the acoustic space in front of the Loggia, in the church, in the castle's music hall, or in any other place out in the open. Out of all the languages which can be heard here, music truly remains the only unified form of expression that creates a bond between everyone under Groznjan's skies. Ancient traditions also come to life in the preparation of the typical cuisine made in these parts, which is often tied to the celebration of specific holidays and religious feasts. Natural foods with the tastes and aromas of a healthy kitchen are increasingly valued, so that Groznjan's important culinary traditions are being preserved as local residents attempt to strike a balance between man and nature. Therefore, culinary meetings have been introduced where samples of the local cuisine are tested by both aficionados and "amateur" tasters. Even here the development of rural tourism is rightfully being considered, especially in nearby Kastanja, where excellent malmsey wines and olive oil are produced, and in Završje, known for its high quality dark red wines. In Groznjan itself there is the Ladonja Restaurant, which offers a number of local specialty mushroom dishes and those made with the excellent white truffles from the Mirna River valley. The evening can be concluded with socializing in the pleasant atmosphere of the Violin Cantina, a favorite meeting-place for artists. Some of the most evocative landscapes of Istria's interior can be encountered when travelling from Groznjan to Oprtalj. By foot or on bike, newcomers will uncover unbelievably beautiful scenery: shady forests, meadows abounding in colorful flowers, caves, creeks, old mills, lone houses and hamlets which stand atop the hills. The pleasant climate of this part of Istria makes it a nice place to stay in any time of the year. The soil configuration is unusually suited for the development of hunting and rural tourism, which can offer typical local cuisine, including the renowned Istrian truffles. Speleology and wine-making are already being promoted as aspects of tourism; in the latter case, there are road signs that lead visitors along the so-called wine road to the best wine cellars. Source:
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This page compliments of Marisa Ciceran Created: Saturday, August 14, 1999; Last
updated: Tuesday, April 01, 2008
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